A cold glass of 100-proof arrack on ice was just what I needed after a hot nap on the bus. As I slowly come to, Raj - the owner of Indish, excitedly explains his menu:
Indish is North Indian home cooking, not your normal curry-house fare - no naan, no sauces laden with ghee, spices are abundant but dishes aren't incredibly 'spicy', and oil is kept to a minimum in contrast to what he describes as 'wedding' food thick with spiced oil that clings to the palate. Raj is the first to admit that the sort of Indian 'banquet' food we're accustomed to in the west is delicious and he's certainly sopped up his share of beer with it in his former life as a lawyer in London, but he's here to preach the gospel of everyday North Indian home cooking.
As Raj and I wander into a conversation on booze and beer (I could talk to this chap for hours) he gets pulled away to help a table with the menu and I'm finally aware enough to start soaking the place in. High ceilings, a large bar, slick couches, warm service, and a small open kitchen with minimal staff certainly resonates with his description of "a small restaurant in a big space". Raj's wife Laura does the cooking, and his zeal for her prowess humbles his tone in every one of our many conversations throughout the night. As I work on the arrack to nurse me back into the land of the living, my two appetizers arrive:
Peanut Salad - boiled peanuts, tomato, onion, lemon, chile, and coriander
Any dish advertised as a 'drinking food' is an automatic get for me since it's just code for either salty or spicy and in this case both. Barely soft peanuts mixed with what's essentially pico de gallo - great pico de gallo at that - with plenty of serrano chile and citrus acidity was a shot to the heart for me, but then again it's a flavor combination I get the shakes for (I have a dire salsa habit). I'll be ordering this every time...maybe twice.Lamb Kebab - Lamb, garlic, herbs and spices cooked in the tandoor with mint chutney
Serrano Chile Chutney
This stuff is as hot as it comes, but serranos are especially adept at avoiding pure mouth destruction and this chutney achieves that goal with aplomb, while adding a welcome bit of freshness too.Lamb Kheema - Spicy lamb mince slow cooked with herbs and spices
By now it's clear that I also have a lamb habit, but I just couldn't resist an example of the humble food Indish is pointing to, and I found it to be just that. The minced lamb was light in both texture and flavor, but developed a strong foundation of savory herbs and sweet meat that exuded pure comfort. Once the tender lamb was wrapped in half-crisp chapati and spread with chile chutney it evolved into a hearty and spicy filling that again spoke to the care taken in balancing flavors that won't overwhelm but heartily satisfies.Mushroom Duxelles - Mushrooms, sauteed onions, garlic, ginger, and spices
Ok, so it's a weird choice I know, but I wanted to pick something semi-obscure from the menu to encompass it's breadth and I was craving mushrooms. This fungus bowl is a devastating umami bomb - the aminos hit so hard it almost tastes like shoyu, but unknown spices and coriander pull it out from the depths of salty despair at the final moment. Smothered inside a chapati with the chile chutney acidity wed to the salty richness yields one of the best mushroom experiences I've encountered.
The closest I've been to a family meal in North India is a Sri Lankan restaurant in Paris, so I have no idea if Indish successfully lives up to the style, but I love what's coming out of that small open kitchen. Nothing I tried was bland or boring, it was all exquisitely spiced and heartily nourishing in that best sort of comfort food way. I regret not trying a dal or dessert as I hear both a great, but I suppose it's another good excuse to come in.
Throughout my meal Raj stopped to chat whenever he was behind the bar, sometimes getting distracted enough to neglect his efforts toward a perfect pour of english nitro ale or pulling the cork from a bottle of chilled white wine, which I hear has lead to complaints of slow service and spending too much time with customers. He was bouncing endlessly from table to table to explain what Indish does to an ignorant population, so cut him some slack. I'm sure as the clientele grows Indish will hire more staff to alleviate a bit of this, but I'd just like to say it's a sad and unfortunate culture that complains of time spent with their host or a meal that bleeds their precious time beyond 60 minutes. I toast Indish for taking time with it's patrons to explain their vision and craft, so preach on Raj and Laura, preach on. (For the rest of you there's a Taco Bell around the corner on Burnside)
Nice review of Indish and glad they're getting more attention. I really enjoy the well seasoned food coming out of their kitchen and have had many fine meals there.
Raj is quite a character and I always enjoy talking to him.
VERY appropriate comment: "...it's a sad and unfortunate culture that complains of time spent with their host or a meal that bleeds their precious time beyond 60 minutes..."
Posted by: John DePaula | June 25, 2009 at 04:22 PM